The Autumn Pantry

The gold of the forest

Autumn is mushroom season. Chanterelles, winter chanterelles and porcini lift any dish, whether they become a creamy soup for a starter or a side for a juicy roast. If you forage yourself, only pick what you can identify with certainty. And don’t rinse chanterelles: brush off soil and pine needles and dry-fry them in a hot pan before the butter goes in. That way they brown and keep a firm texture instead of stewing in their own juices.

Our chanterelle soup shows how little is needed. Butter, cream, a little thyme and a touch of honey let the mushrooms take centre stage. The soup can also be made the day before.

Game and slow cooking

As the evenings get darker, the pots get to simmer for longer. Game such as red deer, roe deer and elk is lean, with a full, slightly foresty flavour. Large roasts are best cooked slowly in liquid, as in our porter-braised red deer, where porter, blackcurrant and juniper build a rich sauce while the meat simmers until it almost falls apart. Smaller, tender cuts such as fillet are seared quickly and served pink.

Juniper, thyme, blackcurrant and red wine are classic flavours with game. If you prefer beef, the same ideas apply: a beef Wellington with mushroom duxelles and red wine sauce is autumn party food at its very best.

The season of root vegetables

Parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot and carrots are at their best now. Roast them slowly in the oven with oil, salt and a few sprigs of thyme to bring out their natural sweetness, which balances the lean character of game perfectly. Jerusalem artichokes turn smooth and nutty in a soup, and goat cheese, honey and toasted nuts are classic companions for beetroot. The same trio is found in our goat cheese toast.

Apples, lingonberries and warm spices

For dessert we bring out the fruit of the garden and the forest. Lingonberries add tartness and colour, as in the lingonberry cream for our almond cake. A classic apple pie with homemade vanilla custard, or poached pears with a hint of ginger and cardamom, are other safe bets. And when darkness falls early, a proper piece of chocolate never disappoints: a brownie with whipped cream and berries rounds off the dinner in style.

Something to drink

Rich autumn dishes can take more powerful wines. With game and mushrooms, a red with soft tannins and earthy notes works well, such as a Burgundian Pinot Noir or a Nebbiolo. With the porter-braised roast, a dark beer is good too, ideally the same porter as in the pot. For something alcohol-free, warm spiced apple juice or a blackcurrant drink with a little ginger is good company. With dessert: a sweet wine at least as sweet as the cake, or a digestif with the coffee.

Setting the table for an autumn evening

Let the season move onto the table. A few branches of coloured leaves, rowan berries or a bowl of apples do more than expensive decorations. Dark cloth napkins, warm wood and plenty of candles create a cosy feeling while it is dark outside. Choose a starter and a dessert that can be made in advance, so that as the host you get to sit down and enjoy the evening with your guests.